Morelia Viridis (chondro python) - Biak Island

Piaraan dari mulai Juni 2010... Dapet waktu acara Reptilx exhibition di Bandung.. Dipiara dari mulai segede jari manis tapi jarang makan cicak, langsung makan cindil... Napsu makannya mantab...

 

 

 

 

 

Update 2011, setelah 1 tahun lebih masih tetep kuning tapi mulai ontogenic.. Ijonya mulai keluar..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chondro biak ini salah 1 "tong sampah" dirumah hehehehe...

Snake Feeding Problem

Feeding Problems So your snake is not eating, firstly, you’re going to think things along the line of OMG! What am I doing wrong? Am I a bad snake keeper? Will my snake die? And things along this line. Snakes are designed to have long periods of fasting, older specimens can last months without food so long as they are well cared for and are drinking. If a snake refuses a meal then simply leave it a week before trying again, if you offer over and over again you could intimidate your pet, this may normally do the trick. But not always. If it refuses again then you need to consider what is wrong, there is normally a simple explanation you need to consider the following: 1. Is the habitat at the correct temp 2. Correct humidity 3. Any external stimuli affecting the snake? Loud noise vibration, kids prodding and poking etc? 4. Is the pet unwell, sick, mites, shedding, breeding season? 5. Is the pet new to its environment 6. Are you handling it too much? 7. Are you offering the right size / type prey 8. Is the prey warm enough? 9. Are YOU intimidating the snake? 10. Have you introduced 2 snakes together? 11. Habitat is too large? Ensure that you read up on the correct temp and humidity for the species of your snake and adjust as required. Is the habitat in a quiet area? Snakes are sensitive to vibration and loud noise creates a lot of vibration which could upset your snake likewise kids prodding and poking the snake etc will upset the poor pet! Check the wellness of the snake, give it a good visual and seek advice of a recommended Herp Vet if you have concerns, if it has mites treat the snake and the viv (along with any other Vivs in the household). If it is in shed mode then allow it to shed and then check that it has shed fully, checking eye caps etc. If it is a clean shed give it a couple of days then try a feed. If it’s in your snakes breeding season then it’s possibly got more on its mind than thinking about food it’s wanting a bit of loving try giving it a meal once a week until it takes just keep an eye on weight, condition and that it’s drinking. If it’s new to its environment then give it a week or two to settle in before feeding. Don’t handle your snake too much before feeding, handling is great exercise for your snake and we love to handle our pets, but even the most mellow of snakes do get a little stressed out being handled. When you have had your snake a long while you will know its limits but until you do try not to handle the snake too much on the day of the feed and don’t handle for 2 days after a feed. Are you giving the snake the right size and type of prey? Corns prefer mice on the whole, Royals prefer rats, kings will eat anything it can get it teeth onto etc. Research your pet if you are new to snake keeping, you will also need to research the size of prey for your snake Corns offer up prey no larger than one and a half times its thickest part it may seem huge compared to mouth and neck but you’d be surprised at the how much they can stretch their mouth and neck. Prey too large can intimidate the snake or if you have a greedy snake they can damage themselves trying to take prey too large for them Snakes who eat defrosted prey need to have the prey warm, there are numerous ways to warm prey however DONT defrost in a microwave or stick in VERY hot water you do not want to cook the prey I personally allow the prey to defrost naturally once fully defrosted I place the prey in a sandwich bag and place in some warm water for 15 mins this makes the prey a little warmer then body temp. However you defrost and warm the prey the idea is that the snake needs a nice juicy prey item full of nutrients any form of cooking will lose those nutrients and cooked prey will almost certainly be regurgitated as will very cold or part frozen prey. Snakes are arguably the best designed predators, nature has perfected these little wriggly creatures, however unless they are a 20 ft + anaconda then nature has something that will feast on them so naturally snakes will not allow themselves to be in a position of danger if they can help it. They will be aware if you are watching it and a snake is at its most vulnerable when it feeds and drinks your snake would rather go hungry than risk getting eaten itself; this is part of the reason that they are so successful. If you have recently introduced two snakes together, this could cause great stress for one or both snakes if this has happened then I would recommend removing the new one and placing that in a separate viv. The discussion re keeping pairs of snakes together is situated elsewhere on this forum. Is your Viv too big? I used to feel that a snake would be fine in any size Viv so long as there was plenty of cover and hides etc. I was proved wrong when I moved my Brazilian Rainbow Boa into a 4 ft Viv too early; it stopped eating and refused to eat until it was put back into a smaller viv. I have learned the importance of correct size habitat although the debate will be ongoing for others. The above hasn’t Worked, Help!! OK we have gone through the basics and you’re happy everything is in order what are the tricks to feeding? Try different feeding methods... Try feeding at dusk or at dawn, these are generally the snakes optimal hunting times. Leave the prey on a piece of kitchen towel overnight in the viv. Try feeding out of the viv in a feeding tub I use an old Cake tub with a lid, its opaque so the snake feels secure it has a lid with some air holes and easy to keep clean. Or if the snake is small enough use a reasonably large paper bag, place the prey in the bag then add the snake and leave in the viv for around half an hour before checking. Gently try wriggling the mouse using feeding tongs, just enough to get the snakes interest Caution, don’t do this too hard as you may intimidate your snake and worsen the condition, I have spent 30 mins pretending to walk a mouse round a viv using long tongues, just to get a snakes interest. Try Braining the prey, once defrosted use a sharp knife and make an incision into the skull of the prey, this is supposed to be the Calvin Klein of the snake world, they love it! a nice brainy bloody smell which should have your snake interested. This is a messy method and not for the squeamish, if you don’t think you are able to do this then get a friend who can. Feeding pieces of chick may also get your snake going  - or at the very least keep it going until you can find a solution to the feeding problem. This list is by no means exhaustive just what I have done so far, and I have found successful. However, if these DIY items are not successful then you can do the following... Speak to the place / person you got the snake from for advice (this is the reason for buying a snake from a recommended shop/breeder) Take the snake to a Herp / pet shop dealing in them, a lot of them will take them in and get them going again some will charge, others may not. There is another method, which some find distasteful and others get highly emotional about, and that is the option of live feeding!  For some snakes, the predatory instinct may be too strong and they may only take live prey - or need to take live and then be weaned off it.  This method of feeding may need to be considered before assist feeding or force feeding as it is less stressful.  In the UK it is legal to live feed, however there are limitations... It must be done so that there is no undue suffering on the prey item, it must not be done for sport and it must not be done for entertainment.  People on You Tube run very close to the line of breaking UK laws when showing live feeding. Live feeding must be supervised; snakes can receive horrendous bites and possibly die if not supervised.  Rodents have teeth and when they are stressed i.e. in the presence of a snake and they are cornered i.e. in a feeding tub or in a vivarium they will try and protect themselves.  Snakes won’t always take live prey for a whole host of reasons, if they haven’t taken it in around half an hour you should remove the prey from the snake to prevent both animals becoming stressed. Prey items that are not taken should be humanely dispatched - especially small rats and mice that are not weaned.  This can be done at a vet at a cost, or you can do it yourself with a blunt instrument such as a heavy knife handle and a sharp rap on the back of the neck. Ultimately there MAY come a time where an assist feed is necessary this should be done only by persons who have done this before and are confident in their skills, it is stressful for the snake and the person doing the assist feed and there is a chance that the snake could be killed in the process (if done wrong) In MOST cases the problem will resolve itself, some snakes are naturally picky I have a royal that will only eat pure white male rats it won’t touch any prey with brown or black patches. During the period that your snake does not eat you will be frustrated and concerned try not to be as I said earlier snakes that are well fed and in good health can last a fair few months before they start becoming unwell, hatchlings and unwell snakes won’t last as long and expert advice ought to be sought sooner rather than later if all the basics have been checked and found to be in order.

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Source: snakesathome.co.uk

Information and Caresheet for Liasis Mackloti Mackloti (Freckled Python)

Freckled Python

Scientific name:  Liasis mackloti
Other common names:  Indonesian water python, Macklot's python.
Size:  This is a medium-sized python of medium girth. The head is wider than the neck, the tail is relatively long, but not particularly prehensile. Occasional specimens, particularly females, can become relatively heavy-bodied. 
             Freckled pythons are sexually dimorphic in size, females are larger than males.  Adult females average seven to eight feet in length and weigh about 12-16 pounds; males average six to seven feet in length. The maximum length of this species exceeds nine feet.
             Hatchlings are 15"-20" in total length. Hatchlings are very dark brown in color. 
Distribution:  The freckled python is found in the eastern end of the archipelago of the Lesser Sundas Islands of Indonesia. The species in found on the large island of Timor and the smaller nearby islands of Roti, and Semau.
             Freckled pythons are primarily creatures of the grassy uplands. Despite their occasionally being identified as “Indonesian water pythons,” the species is not particularly aquatic in its habitat preference. This species occurs in many habitats, but it is most strongly associated with the rolling hills and open grasslands found in its range. Smaller specimens are agile climbers and all are good swimmers, but the species is rarely encountered off the ground or near water.
Pattern variation:  Freckled pythons have pale heads with yellow chins and throats, and dark bodies with pale freckles. The undersides of their necks are pale yellow, and their bellies become increasingly dark posteriorly. The underside of the tail may be uniformly dark.
             Timor specimens tend to have an even flecking of pale scales on their bodies. The backs may appear darker than the sides in some pale Timor specimens. Freckled pythons from Roti are overall very dark with few pale freckles. Semau specimens may have dark speckling on their heads; they may have so many pale freckles on the body and particularly on the sides as to appear overall nearly as pale as the head coloration.  
Color variation:  The color of the heads of most freckled pythons is brown and is very similar to the color of the pale freckles seen on the bodies. The color of the bodies varies among individuals from olive-browns to rich dark browns. Semau specimens tend to have the palest overall appearance, while Roti specimens are the darkest.
               There are no records of albinism or other forms of hypomelanism for this taxon. While freckled pythons do exhibit considerable variations in color from individual to individual, we know of no reports of dramatically unusual or anomalous conditions of color in this species. 

Maintenance requirements:
—Cage size:  Freckled pythons require a secure well-ventilated cage. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) makes a satisfactory cage for young specimens. Large plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, can be satisfactorily used to maintain freckled pythons. There are a variety of commercially available accommodations for pythons the size of adult freckled pythons including cages constructed from polyethylene, ABS plastic, PVC and fiberglass. These are available in various sizes from several manufacturers. 
            We first maintain hatchling freckled pythons in a small enclosure with about 40 square inches of floor space. It is generally true that hatchling and young snakes placed in too-large enclosures may become insecure and fail to feed. However, in the case of freckled pythons, they typically are such voracious feeders that cage size is not as important a consideration as it can be for other species of pythons. By six months of age we move youngsters to their next cages.
            Young adult freckled pythons are kept in cages with two square feet of floor space. This amount of space is adequate for about a year. Most adults could live out their lives quite happily in an enclosure with six square feet of floor space. Some very large females may require 8-10 square feet of floor space.
—Substrate:  It has been our experience and observation that adult freckled pythons are most easily maintained when kept on newspaper. When using newspaper as a cage substrate, it is a good maintenance practice, after papering the bottom, to crumple several pieces of newspaper in the cage, under which a snake can hide if desired.

            Youngsters and subadults can be kept very satisfactorily on paper or on aspen bedding. Large specimens also could be kept on aspen, but to do so we would recommend a large cage and lots of aspen.

—Water:  Clean water should be available in a glass or ceramic water bowl at all times. For hatchlings and juveniles we supply a small water bowl measuring about 2½" in diameter, 1" in depth. Most adult freckled pythons are supplied 16 oz water bowls that are 4” in diameter and 2½” deep. The largest specimens are provided water bowls that are 8” in diameter and 2½” deep.
             Freckled pythons are rarely observed to soak in their water bowl in conditions of normal health and security. Most often the reason for freckled pythons to sit in their water bowls is that they are plagued by snake mites. This is generally a confident species, but, as is true for any python species, when stressed or insecure in their cages, some shy individuals may sit in their water bowls, "hiding" in the water.
—Temperatures:  As a general starting point, freckled pythons seem to do best if kept in the low-to-mid-80s ⁰F. It's a good maintenance practice to provide a temperature gradient for freckled pythons, making one end of the cage 5-8 ⁰F warmer than the other end. The cool end of the cage should be maintained at 78-80 ⁰F.
             In actual practice, for adult freckled pythons we provide a warm basking spot in the floor of their cage that is 88-92 ⁰F, using either heat tape for small cages or FlexWatt for larger cages. The cages are well-ventilated, so that all heat escapes. The cages are in rooms with ambient temperatures that vary from 75-82 ⁰F. Young freckled pythons, including hatchlings, are kept in small cages that do not have basking spot or a temperature gradient. They are kept at ambient temperature in a room that varies from 78 degrees at night to 84 degrees in the day.
            As is true for many snakes, freckled pythons can better tolerate temperature extremes if they do not have food in their digestive system. If recently fed, freckled pythons should not be subjected to temperatures more than 90 ⁰F or below 74 ⁰F. When empty of food, freckled pythons are tolerant of a wider range of temperatures.
—Feeding requirements:  Young freckled pythons eat mice. Older freckled pythons are fed rats. Large specimens may eat small rabbits. One appropriately-sized prey item per week is an adequate feeding schedule. Large sexually-mature specimens will usually stop feeding during the winter months.
            Hatchlings usually begin feeding on live small mice (just weaned, 4-5 weeks old) for their first meals. Once feeding has commenced, most freckled pythons readily accept dead prey as food, either thawed or fresh-killed.
             REMEMBER!  Don't leave live rodents in with pythons unsupervised for any period longer than 30 minutes. A live hungry adult mouse left in the cage with any captive python may attack and damage or even kill the python. When feeding a live mouse to any snake, always place some food for the mouse in the cage at the same time.
—Shedding:  Freckled pythons generally have few problems shedding their skin. When a snake incompletely sheds, and a portion of the skin is left adhered to the snake, the snake should be soaked in pure or slightly-soapy shallow water for several hours, after which the adhered shed typically comes off very easily. 
           Small patches of skin that remain adhered to the snake are not expected to have any deleterious effect and it is at the option of the keeper to arrange for the removal. It’s probably best to see that skin is not left on the face and eyes. Typically, “stuck” pieces of shed will come off with the next shed. Incomplete sheds and adhered sheds are an indicator that the ambient humidity in the cage is too low and the careful keeper will “tweak” the system to increase the humidity.
—Special considerations for hatchlings and juveniles:  Some hatchling freckled pythons are ferociously nippy for the first few months of their life. Not to worry. The snakes are small and the bites are harmless. Feed them lots of food and get them growing. Once they're about 4-6 months old, they begin to settle down. Adults are typically very good-natured.
—General comments:  Freckled pythons are beautifully patterned pythons, large but not too large. They grow fast, if encouraged by lots of food, and they can sexually mature in their second year. They breed readily in captivity. To date, they've been rather overlooked by python fanciers, but they have a growing fan club.

Breeding: Macklot's Python breeds best after a brumation period of slightly cooler temperatures (between 79 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit) and very little water. They usually mate between January and February and the eggs hatch in the spring

Source:http://www.vpi.com

Liasis Mackloti Mackloti (Freckled Python)

Salah satu jenis python yang ukurannya lumayan, tidak terlalu besar atau terlalu kecil. Enak untuk di handle dan perawatannya lebih mudah..
Ukuran rata2nya antara 2 - 3 meter dan biasanya betina adult lebih besar dari jantan..

Kalaotoa Super Dwarf Reticulatus Pyhon (male)

Super dwarf Reticulatus Pyhon asal kepulauan Kalaotoa, Sulawesi..
Seperti sebagian besar perilaku SDR, si kontet ini juga jumpy, agak gak bisa diem kalo lagi di handle dan seperti retic pada umumnya juga, feeding response nya mantab..